Best Craft Beer Bars in Guadalajara

In the past few years, Mexico has exploded with craft breweries.  Guadalajara has a whole heap of breweries and more and more keep popping up everywhere.  Minerva is the most famous craft beer on the market here and they produce a good range of quality beers and special editions which thanks to a change in Mexican exclusivity laws are becoming more commonly served in your average bars. Which is a great thing.  Here are some great pit stops for craft beer in the city: 

Malta 33 (Calle Hospital 1557, Col. Santa Teresa, GDL)

For me this is probably the best beer bar in town. Located in the fascinating area of Santa Teresa, this very local looking place (it is situated on a residential street) is a real gem. They stock a HUGE range of different beers from Jalisco and they are all sorted by the style or type. The staff are hugely friendly and welcoming. The first time we visited was on Halloween and it was rammed to the gunnels with people and the manager insisted on shaking our hands before serving us. Then they went out of their way to ensure we had seats to sit down on and finally we managed to win a crate of beer! Awesome, awesome, awesome place.

La Blanca (Lope de Vega 127, GDL) This is a super lil place close to Centro Magno shopping mall. It is a modern stylish wooden bar with a nice balcony to relax while sampling the various different beers that they have to offer.  They do flights so you can try them all and then when you are done you can get an ice cream made with the beer!  Hurrah for that!  

San Lúpulo (Calle Prisciliano Sánchez 807, Col. Americana, Americana, 44160)

Grillo!

Down a side street near the most beautiful church in the city, this little bar is funky, strange and stocks a great range of different beers you can't find anywhere else. We thank them for that. You can sit on benches and drink beers off old broken TVs and the staff are super friendly. This is a very local bar, but they are nice and when you pick one of their favourites they seem to be geniunely impressed by your selection. They stock the rare Fauna brewery beers which are made in collaboration with great US breweries. So yay for them! And for us!

Grillo (Chapultepec 215, 44160 GDL)

Grillo is a great find on Chapultepec. The bar itself is teeny tiny but there is great seating outside and upstairs. Additionally you can order beers from the bar in the restaurant El Nacional right next door! The staff are generally very friendly and the beer range is extensive and arranged by style. They sell mainly Mexican beers but they also have a good range from the US (including Coronada Brewing Company from San Diego which is one of my favourites). AND they give you spicy mixed nuts for free!

El Deposito (Av. Chapultepec Sur 129 or Avenida Adolfo Lopez Mateos Sur 805, Jardines del Bosque, 44520)

The beer doesn't last long

Welll there are several of these across the city. Some are good with friendly staff and enough room to really look around and see the beers. Others are really quite crap (Chapultepec) with really pretentious and unfriendly staff – last time we went there they had run out of glasses. IN A BEER BAR???? hahahaa. The kind of do this thing where the don't offer any alternatives just stare at you. Hmmm. They stock beers from Europe, Mexico and some from the US too. They also have local brewery Minerva on tap which is worth a visit on its own.

El Faquir (Lopez Cotilla 1531 -close to Chapultepec, GDL)
This place isn't strictly speaking only a craft beer bar, it is a pulqueria which serves pulque, a pre-hispanic drink made from agave.  The pulque is varied in various flavours - I strongly recommend the rompope and the mint one!  So good!  The pyscadelic colours make and guest DJs make it a modern pulqueria and the fact that they stock a range of artesenal beers - including a pulque infused one which is good make it worth while to visit.

Pinto Negra (Av. Justo Sierra 1982, Ladrón de Guevara, 44600)

Located on a side street off Chapultepec, it is unlikely you would notice this little gem. Specializing in stone cooked? Pizzas, this upstairs balcony bar stocks a good range of Mexican beers that are hard to find in other places. The pizzas are really impressive too. Saturday nights they have DJs and you can dine and drink under the stars! Awesome place but you often need ID to enter.

A day trip to...Colón, Querétaro

Colón is a religious town and most of the tourism around it is based on pilgrimages. Around an hour from Queretaro city.  This town is worthy of a stop into for its beautiful churches and market whether you are religious or not. The only town in Mexico to be named after Christopher Colombus (well it was originally an indigenous town and then later renamed)

I have become obsessed with the idea of visiting towns that are associated with different catholic virgins.  In Jalisco we had the virgin of Zapopan and the virgin of San Juan de los Lagos, both of which I have visited to catch a glimpse of the doll like statue at the front of the churches.  Each virgin although an extension of the general concept of the virgin Mary is often connected with miracles or holy experiences and although they look similar in their appearances, embody and represent different qualities.  I additionally enjoy collecting souvenirs of these virgins and they appear on a special shelf in my house.

Colón's significance as a religious site is based around its virgin, The Virgin of Sorrows. The main church here is dedictaed to the Virgin of Sorrows - a styling of the virgin Mary who is reflected in a state of intense sorrow or suffering.

Nunzilla!

Pretty chapel

The whole importance of the town seems to emulate from the church and on the Sunday I visited that was what most people here wanted to experience.  The church itself was packed and everyone was singing away.  The smaller chapels in to the sides of the church are worth visiting for their over the top decoration which is not unlike a holiday villa in Spain at times, but very colourful and good to look at for a bit.  On the far side of the church is a small museum of paintings and material related to visions of the virgin around Mexico.  One of my favourites made it look like the virgin was an attacking godzilla like figure, nunzilla, if you will.

Between the bus station and the main part of town there is a really beautiful little chapel which when I visited was stunningly decorated in fresh flowers and completely deserted.  Was really atmospheric and peaceful, so be sure to keep an eye out for it!

A Day trip to...Celaya, Guanajuato

Celaya Skyline in the city centre

OK, so this again is one of those towns where the locals of the city advise you to not visit. They say it is crime ridden, dirty, and not worthy of your time.  This, as usual, makes me wanna go all the more!  Now living in Queretaro, Mexico after moving from Guadalajara for a new job - it was the first of the new towns to explore.

Statue of Independence

The city is famous in Mexican history for an epic battle which took place in 1915..  Now it is mostly a quiet town renowned for its strawberries and raspberries (although I saw very little of either on my visit).    The town has quite a few oddities which will be of interest for a wandering tourist.  Firstly the city has the countries first statue of independence in the city centre and also features a large metal water container right next to the beautiful cathedral and historical buildings. Whether you feel that the water container is an eye sore or an interesting addition to the skyline is up to you.  I find it kind of awesome!  It really breaks the skyline up from being just another colonial style city with pretty buildings.

It would be super to have tours to access parts of the ball but heyho.  Nope,  You just have to admire it from underneath.

The city centre is reasonably small and after an hour or so on foot you can explore most of the side streets of the main part of the city.  I found the city museum (http://cultura-celaya.com/museo.html) really interesting and the displays were well managed and well presented.  Additionally on a Sunday the main plaza often has a band playing and on my visit was full of people dancing in the open air.  A pleasant and good way to spend a few hours people watching.

I would like to return to the city at night as there seemed to be some incredible looking cantinas - traditional and huge!  I will update when I have explored them!  

Hidalgo - Pachuca and easy day trips from the capital.

Well this state is one of those places that people have heard of but they can't seem to be able to tell you exactly where it is... They will say they know it is close to Mexico City but gets lost among all the tiny little states and the renowned beautiful cities of central Mexico which take up most people's time.

Store in Pachuca

Crazy with excitement at Tula

Hidalgo state is important for many reasons. It was the site of many mineral mines which were created by the Spanish and then over the years added upon with the advice of the French and the English. Now the whole landscape of the state is dotted with impressive ruins of the glorious mining past. Additionally the state is famous for its pasties. Imported to Mexico by Cornish miners, the famous pasties have been adapted from their root ingredients of potato and meat to include many staple Mexican dishes such as mole, chorizo and sweet flavours such as pineapple and rice pudding! WOWSERS! Taste wise they are similar to the English snacks but the pastry is thinner and less crispy. Well worth trying one or two and luckily there are stores seemingly every two metres or so in every town here...

Street art - Pachuca

Hidalgo is also important as the state where football was introduced into Mexico. Not being a massive football fan, this fact doesn't particularly excite me. But when you think about how football obsessed this country is – it is rather significant.

Prismas! 

Thirdly Hidalgo is famous its production of the alcoholic drink Pulque. The hot dry climate of the mountainous areas of Hidalgo are perfect for the growing of the maguey plant (agave) from which the sap is removed and fermented producing a strange thick bitter drink which is a similar consistency to milk. It is often served mixed with fruit juice and is a good thirst quencher and needs to be tried. It can be a bit of a love / hate thing though! Rarely found in cans, the drink can be bought on the street in small towns or in special pulque bars called pulquerias.

PACHUCA

Main plaza - was under renovation

Awesome sculpture

The capital of Hidalgo, Pachuca, is a criminally under-visited gem. After being in Mexico City for a while, Pachuca can seem a little villagey in comparison. Nestled in between many mountains and hills which surround the city, the city is easily explored on foot and hosts many interesting buildings and monuments. The most iconic of these is the clock monument which stands in the broad central square. Closed off for refurbishment on our visit, and due to open the following week, we had to peek through the fence to see what it looked like. Pachuca is an interesting city as it doesn't actually have a cathedral on its main square and actually doesn't have one at all! The main church is the Parroquia de San Francisco.

Dove of Weapons

In terms of things to see Pachuca has a couple of good museums – the Museo de Mineria museum being one of them with hugely insightful and enthusiastic guides which make the history of mining come alive for you. Guides are seemingly only in Spanish. The Cuartel del Arte houses different mini museums and galleries for you to explore – the only one open was the Museo Nacional de la Fotografia which contains a whole range of amazing historical photos of Pachuca and Mexico City.

The city's main park is also well worth a wonder for a moment of relaxation but also to see the striking peace memorial which is a beautiful white dove, but look closer! The whole construction is made of weapons which were confiscated within Hidalgo state. Impressive, disturbing and lovely all that time!

Selfies with Jesus

The tourist information van is well worth visiting. It is located on the main square and they can give you maps and they offer tours during the day and in the evening too! We did one of their tours which for $40mxn will take you up to the north of the city to one of the hilltops which overlook the city and you can see the Jesus statue that overlooks the city. Although I have seen quite a few Jesus statues in Mexico, I think this is one of the best! The construction is pretty nice and the view from up here is amazing. The tour usually also stops a sacred art museum at the Cuartel del Arte.  

In terms of places to eat and drink, Pachuca wasn't exactly stomping with energy! There seemed to be a lack of range of good places to have a beer or two and when we visited it being Easter weekend people seemed to be hiding somewhere out of the city! One great place was Espresso Central an amazing coffee house with great friendly staff a good range of paninis and also with craft beer! Housed in a communal building with a range of different bars, shops and restaurants, you can decide on what place looks best for you. Next door and accessible through Espresso Central is the cute bar in a shipping container The Black Wolf which stocks craft beer from three different local breweries including Pachuca Brewing Company (the Black IPA is GOOOOOOD!), Additionally a quick mention to Revolucion Cervevercia stocks a good range of local beers and is your standard beer bar with flags and beer memorabilia lining the wall. Unfortunately their staff were unwelcoming and grumpy so that was a let down.

Excursions out of the city: 

BALSALTIC PRISMAS

Prismas!

This place is well worth the trip from the city of Pachuca and accessible by colectivo from the side of the market in the city centre. These are beautiful naturally formed long salt rocks shaped into edge of a mini valley with picturesque waterfalls. This place gets super busy – especially the weekend when we visited and the selfie sticks were out in force!!!! Go early if you can and if you have the stamina you can visit del monte and chico in the same day. Returning from the Prismas you will need to go to Huasca de Ocampo which is the place to catch shared taxis to other destinations.

REAL DEL MONTE

Bustly Real del Monte

Real del Monte is a cute little town around an hour of Pachuca and is a great place to spend a few hours. There is an extensive mining museum with huge displays of mining equipment and various different impressive buildings filled with exhibitions and displays.


The museum is by guided tour only and the groups can be a little tiring but the information is interesting. I became impatient as I went before lunch and was starving by the end.  We had to a runner out of the place because I was about to kick off through hunger.  The town was thriving with people, there were street performers everywhere and crowds of Mexican families enjoying the weather by eating ice creams in the many pretty squares dotted around. Strangely the gardens in the plaza were recently opened by Charles heir to the British throne and his wife Camilla.

MINERAL DEL CHICO

Awesome and tranquil Mineral del Chico

Chico is a beautiful picture perfect town right up in the hills. Be ready for a winding journey in a small mini bus crammed with people but it is well worth the squish to spend time in this laid-back and tranquil place. Situated on the side of a hill, you have to walk downhill to get to the main square and everything is huddled together randomly on this sloping oddity. There are heaps of food stands and drink sellers everywhere and the place has a genuinely calm and pleasant feel to it. Get a michelada and sit on a wall somewhere and just watch the people go by. Just try not to think about having to get back on that minibus to go back to Pachuca!  You can do hikes around the town and the landscape up here totally looked wonderful to explore - but we didn't have much time, but would love to return to explore one day.  

TULA DE ALLENDE and the TULA RUINS

This modern and not particularly exciting town is well worth a visit to see the ruins here. A much lesser visited archaeological site than the majestic Teotihuacan near Mexico City. The site is rather large and the ruins are interesting mainly for the decorated pillars on top of the largest temple and their depictions of Toltec warriors. During opening hours it is very tricky to get a photo with these without hundreds of people in the background! There are other fascinating aspects to the site with the carved reliefs of walls around the site and also a small museum displaying various other aspects from the site excavations.   
We found it really hard to find anywhere to
eat in this town!!!  Maybe it was the hour or the day

of the week or something but it was really tricky and we were starving after walking around the ruins for so long.  I would advise you take snacks with you. 

Cantina Crawl Part 1!

Well this was a long time coming.  I am obsessed with traditional drinking establishments and have long been an avid fan of alternative brews and atmospheric pubs in my homeland of England.  I have been documenting beer (and chocolate) from around the world on my facebook page.  I am shocked that I have been in Guadalajara this long without actually arranging an event like this!

So for my birthday this year I decided to arrange a cantina crawl around the downtown of the city.  I used the internet to research the best cantinas to go to and also the word of mouth from my friends and students who live and go out in the city.  With a route and a map prepared we headed off into the night of the strange, the weird and wonderful that these places would offer.

With a group in tow, it would be less easy to wimp out and not push the wooden doors into the unknown...There were 12 pubs on our iteniarary.  We made 7!

Realizamos un recorrido por cantinas típicas de la ciudad. Ya hacía tiempo que teníamos idea de hacer uno, pero nunca nos habíamos organizado, ni investigado propiamente, así que para el cumpleaños de Julian decidimos que era tiempo de hacer el recorrido.

Investigamos por internet al mismo tiempo que pregunté a mis compañeros de trabajo por recomendaciones de cantinas y bebidas de las mismas, así llegamos a una lista de lugares por visitar y qué tomar en cada una de ellas. Preparamos la ruta e investigamos la distancia entre cada una de ellas. Todas, afortunadamente, están relativamente cerca una de otra.

Cantina Number 1: Los Equipales (Juan Alvarez and Barcona)

Not particulary inviting on the outside with its white plaster walls and the only hint of the inside cantina being the wooden doors that stand slightly hanging off their hinges. Upon entering the bar we were greeted by a range of aging waiters who seemed surprised to have so many people enter at one time.  The arched bar area is plastered by photos of sports stars and the furniture is traditional with its tired old leather chairs and tables.  The speciality in this place is Nagas Alegres (Happy Buttocks!) hahahaa, so with those ordered without knowing what it actually was the night had began.  This place is highly recommended for relaxing and enjoying the good quality free snacks that they bring out for you when you order drinks.

The Happy Buttocks! 

Esta cantina es muy famosa y tiene años brindando servicio. Por el exterior no se ve muy agradable, pero entrando por las puertas de madera se puede percibir una atmosfera cálida pues los meseros nos recibieron con entusiasmo. Las paredes están llenas de carteles antiguos y las sillas por supuesto !son equipales!

Este lugar es famoso por una bebida llamada "Nalgas Alegres", que es un preparado de distintos alcoholes y refresco.

Hay una rocola pero también pantallas para ver futbol. Las botanas son ricas y siguen llevando conforme más vayas pidiendo.

El precio de las bebidos no es caro, hay una rocola y el servicio es bueno.

Cantina Number 2: Los Molacho's 

This place is AWESOME for people watching.  Above one of the main streets in the city centre.  You need to walk up the stairs and blindly into the bar but is well worth the bravery doing so!  Walking through the door we were suddenly forced into the centre of a party very much in swing (in its own way).  A pianist was playing and a rather drunk surgeon singing along raucously in full medical gear.  I sincerly hope that he was not on his way to work... Directly next to him a  crutch assisted older gentleman upon seeing that we had women in our group was on his feet and whispering sweet anythings in their ears.  This wooden dominated bar was full of mostly men standing around and others in intense discussion.  Upon the strange looks and questions about me being nordic we ventured to the balcony where we overlooked the busy street below.

Unas calles más en dirección a la Catedral, se encuentra este bar. Está en un segundo piso. Es un lugar pequeño por lo que estaba lleno cuando llegamos ahí. Hay un piano en el centro de la cantina con música que hace la estancia muy placentera. Pedimos una cervezas y las tomamos en uno de los balcones para ver la ciudad.El precio es barato y no vimos que dieran botana. La música es interesante y la clientela es más de señores que van a platicar y pasar un buen rato.

Cantina Number 3: La Fuente

No cantina crawl would be complete without a visit to this classic near the main theatre of Guadalajara.  This amazingly atmospheric drinking hall has been frequented by most of my visiting friends and family.  The last time we came here, we had a photo taken behind the bar pouring tequila and they refused to allow us to pay for our drinks! hahahah! AMAZING!  The friendliness ebbs and flows depending on how busy it is, but it is always worth a go.  Frequently they have a pianist and drunk men and women often accompany him drunkenly leading the whole bar into high volume sing-a-longs.  Tonight it was busy and the singular waiter struggled to keep up with the orders.  I don't care, its brilliant! There is a dusty bicycle behind the bar area.  The legend goes that a man was drinking in bar and after quite a few was unable to pay his tab.  He left the bike as a down payment and promised to return with the money and to collect his bike at a later day....he never did.

Llegamos al lugar obligado para cualquier visita al centro. Bar La Fuente. Esta cantina es un clásico un punto de reunión de ajenos y locales. Es una cantina antigua que en la actualidad es visitada por muchas personas. En un día normal se pueden encontrar señores que parecen que han ido a esa cantina por años, jóvenes que pasaron a tomar un trago antes de ir a otro lado, extranjeros que van a conocer más de la cultura local, personas que van saliendo alguna boda o ceremonia religiosa de un templo cercano, entre muchos otros.

Esa noche estaba muy llena y tuvimos problemas para ordenar.

Lo interesante de esta cantina es que arriba de la barra tiene un bicicleta antigua en la pared. La leyenda dice que un cliente no pudo pagar por las bebidas que pidió así que dejo empeñada la bicicleta con la promesa de volver, pero nunca lo hizo.

El precio de las bebidas es barato. No vimos botanas y la música es en vivo. En el centro hay un pequeño escenario donde músicos van a cantar o tocar.

Cantina Number 4: Mascusia

Another great cantina!  Blocked from view from the street by wooden panels but open at the top, this cantina covered with pictures all over the wall is renowned for its Yerbabeuna drinks which are a limey herby drink with vodka and also for its speciality snack which is bull penis.  Within minutes we received the snacks - the usual pig fat with spicy sauce and lime juice and the aforementioned bull penis.  The Mexican contingent of the group seemed horrified by the thought of this, but the US and UK group all tried the snack as far as I know.  It was surprisingly ok to eat and just tasted fatty.  I didn't like to look at it for too long... After seeing us all trying the delicacy the waiter who was really smiley and friendly brought over a tried bull penis and we all took turns examining it and passing it around the group.  What a strange hour or so...

Esta cantina también es un clásico. Tiene años y años en la ciudad. Esta en una zona no muy bonita de la ciudad que puede parecer peligrosa de noche. Hay varias cantinas ya con el mismo nombre, pero esta es la sucursal original.

Me habían comentado que en este lugar servían unas Yerbabuenas muy ricas, así que pedimos unas que estaban servidas en una chabelas. También me habían comentado que había viril de toro en este lugar, así que nos llevaron un plato de botana de viril. En realidad sabe a cueritos, no tiene un sabor distinto ni presentación "extraña".

El mesero nos trajo un viril de toro disecado y los examinamos mientras reíamos y decíamos chistes y albures.

Se pueden encontrar diversas bebidas y los precios varían. Hay botanas gratis con las bebidas y una rocola.

Cantina Number 5: Bar Lido

The sign really reflects the inside of this place!

Crikey.  This must be where souls go to die.  Originally part of a bar and restaurant complex.  The latter looks like it has been dead in the water for quite some time and from initial glances the bar looked like it was closed too.  But not quite.  The deserted tables and chairs welcomed us and the barwoman barely moved from watching something on her phone, midly nodded on our introduction to her and then nodded again after we had ordered.  This place had the atmosphere of a morgue, the mix of traditional music and the blaring sound of the boxing match does not invite warm feelings.  Don't go to the bathroom here, its quite lovely.  Of course not. Drinks were drunk quickly and we moved on...

Bar Lido - WOO! 

Este lugar en realidad no es muy interante. Se encuentra en frente de los dos templos paralelos del centro. El Aranzazú y el otro templo que siempre olvido su nombre. Fuimos los únicos clientes del lugar y el mesero no era en realidad amigable. Así que solo tomamos una cerveza y nos movimos al siguiente lugar.

Cantina Number 6: Bar Gil

A beacon of light greeted us from outside in this 1970s style bar cantina which after the Lido seemed like the Sistine Chapel.  Lively groups packed this place when we visited and a blaring jukebox accompanied the friendly waitress and nice crispy snacks.  It could have been the fact that this was the 6th bar or after the Lido, but I really liked this place.  Traditional and old fashioned but had a good feeling and heaps of Beatles on the jukebox too.  WOO!

Un cambio total en relación al bar anterior. Es un lugar pequeño, como una casa que fue adecuada a bar. Esta lleno personas que quieren ir a pasar un buen rato. Se siente una atmosfera relajada y de fiesta.  Tomamos una cerveza mientras escuchábamos música de la rocola y comíamos unos churritos de botana.

Cantina Number 7: El Morelia II

Bras on the bar!  

Approaching this tiny little lo
cal oddity, we realised we had been taken here on a previous drunken evening out.  This bar is always rammed to the roof with locals this bar I felt was one of the least friendly from the evening tour.  They apparently had no beer left when we arrived and that could be true, it wouldn't be the first place we tried to visit that had run out of alcohol!  They did give one of my group some free food which was pretty good.  Worth ducking your head into if in the area as the bar is adorned with quite a wide range of bras.  We drank Mezcal here and were knocked into a lot by the lively crowd before heading off into the night... for tacos of course.

Caminamos unas cuantas cuadras para llegar al bar El Morelia, que todavía era más pequeño que el bar Gil e igual era como una casa adecuada para ser bar. Debido a lo pequeño del bar la gente estaba de pie dentro y fuera del lugar bebiendo.

Nos acercamos a la barra y nos dijeron que ya no tenían cerveza. Lo que se nos hizo muy raro. Los meseros y el servicio no fue el mejor pues parecía que no querían atendernos.

Ordenamos una ronde de shots de mezcal y nos fuimos del lugar.

Algo interesante del lugar es que arriba de la barra hay un cable con muchos brasieres.

Juanacatlán and El Salto

On the outskirts of the Metropolitan Area of Guadalajara live these two twin towns and municipalities.  Between them lies one of the prettiest sites within the metropolitan area - Juanacatlán Falls.

AMAZING!

Once one of the most impressive falls in the Americas and called the Niagara of Mexico. Situated between the two towns and seen from a noisy dusty bridge road, the falls are a shadow of their former glory. Massive influx of industries and factories surrounding the falls caused a lot of water drainage and pollution into the water which has lessened the flow of the falls themselves and also made the whole area stink rather badly.  The chemicals which were used near the water can be seen in the form of massive foamy substances by the side of the falls and the occasional floating soap suds that fly off into the sky.  This is a very sad mistreatment of a wonderful natural location.  The derelict factory buildings next to the falls now (still rather powerful - although nothing what it used to be!) beg to be turned into something and used or significantly smartened up.  The area really is rather attractive - green marshes and vegetation galore everywhere, but pollution and rubbish everywhere really lessen the impact of such a sight.

Our first stop after the falls was the very quiet and peaceful town of Juanacatlán.  Visiting on a Sunday afternoon everything seemed silent and deserted.  The church was closing presumably the mass had just finished and the people must have returned to their house.  The church itself is very pretty.  The stone tower the tallest thing around and rising in unison with a beatiful tree from the rest of the building.  Those expecting places to eat will be disappointed.  All the stands and small restaurants here were completely empty or deserted.  The busiest area seemed to be around the liquor store where drunk men were congregated and shouting loudly at each other.  It couldn't have been past 1pm!  Being the smallest town within
Guadalajara one of the most popular past times here as a youth is to ride a motorbike around the streets at very high speeds.  I suppose this is a universal way of passing the time...

Next stop was El Salto, around a five minute walk from the falls.  El Salto is an odd mix of modern buildings and ramshackle run down concrete monstrosities.  Sunday hosts a busy and bustly market full of clothes, candy, fruit, vegetables and the occasional hot food stand.  The stand out buildings are in the main square at the top of the hill.








The beautiful church looks like it has been dipped in chocolate (maybe because I was hungry) and also the municipal building which looks like a mini white house - in stark contrast to the buildings surrounding it in the town.

All in all, not the most exciting town in Jalisco by far, but worth the day trip for the waterfall.  Just hold your nose a little.





En las afueras de Guadalajara se encuentran dos pueblos que forman parte de la Zona Metropolitana: El Salto y Juanacatlán.

Estos dos pueblos comparten una cascada llamada "El Salto de Juanacatlán", que alguna vez fue comparada con las cascadas del Niagara. Fue testigo del florecimiento de diversas industrias en la zona, que convirtieron a esos pueblos en punto de atracción para negocios.

En la actualidad las cascadas no son ni la sombra de lo que alguna vez fueron - pues hay basura y desperdicios químicos en forma de espuma en el agua - pero aún así conservan su hechizo natural.

Se puede observar al cascada desde un pequeño mirador o caminando por un angosto puente de concreto; por donde también circulan carros y camiones.

Nuestra primera parada fue Juanacatlán. Es un pueblito callado, calmado y casi desierto. Visitamos la iglesia y caminamos unas cuadras alrededor de la plaza principal buscando algún lugar para comer, pero no tuvimos suerte a pesar de ser la una de la tarde. Los únicos lugares abiertos eran tiendas de abarrotes o licorerías.

Sin mucho por ver o hacer decidimos caminar hasta El Salto, cruzando de nueva cuenta por el puente que pasa por la cascada.

El Salto es un pueblo muy distinto a comparación con su vecino. El domingo es día de tianguis; se encuentra a unos metros de la plaza principal, y se pueden encontrar puestos de ropa, comida, vegetales, juguetes y demás cosas. Muchas personas por todos lados.

Comimos en un puesto de tacos, y el dueño nos dijo que eran los mejores tacos de lengua del pueblo. En verdad eran muy buenos.

La iglesia y el palacio municipal son verdaderas atracciones arquitectónicas debido a sus estructuras inesperadas, pues, por ejemplo, la iglesia parece una galleta barquillo cubierta con chocolate.

Se puede llegar fácilmente a El Salto y a Juanacatlán. Pues hay camiones urbanos que llevan directamente. Tan solo es cuestión de aguantarse la respiración un poco al estar cerca de las cascadas.

Tlajomulco de Zúñiga and the amazing vomiting cats!

One of the fastest growing population areas in the city Tlajomulco is one of the furthest parts of the city and lies out its outer limits by the international airport.  This was yet another town that when speaking to people about visiting advised me against it.  They told me "its a horrible place", "its really industrial and nasty" and other such stuff.

Receently experiencing a building boom and as it was one of the most affordable parts of the city - it was pushed as a good place for families to live cost effectively.  Years down the road the bubble has burst. Families missed seeing their parents as the commuting times to other parts of the city took hours and as usual for this city (Guadalajara) no one had thought of any decent public transport from this area to the others.

The town itself when we visited couldn't have been more pretty and welcoming.  Its pretty churches and its small town market vibe was chaotic but charming and actually relaxing in comparison with other places we have visited.  The town centre had a nice open and free feeling.  We found a great food court upstairs in the market with various taco stands serving many Mexican classics.

My favourite thing about this town was the awesome fountains in the town center.  They have the eagle from the Mexican coat of arms in the middle and then surrounding it was various cats which look like they were vomiting all over it!

Vomiting Cat! 

AMAZING!  Not every town has vomiting cat statues and that is a good thing and a reason to visit Tlajomulco!

A strange thing about Mexico is that drinking is completely illegal in public places and the restrictions are often enforced.  You always see teenagers having their beers tipped over the floor when drinking outside in squares by police.  But in small towns and beaches these laws are very very relaxed.  In the middle of the streets they often have street sellers making micheladas (beer cocktails with tomato juice, spicy sauce and sometimes fizzy water) and other cocktails with tequila!  They key?  They put it in a special cup (a large white polystyrene one) and then it is all ok, even though if you are drinking from that thing it is often alcohol!  hahahah!

Alex is unsure about some of these mugs. 

Bad Things Happen (October 2015)

I find posts like this very tricky indeed because the last thing I want to do is to scare people and make them think twice even for a second about travelling places. All places in the world have their own inherent risks whether it be from terrorism or crime or disease and there are things that are just out of your hands. This story is a case when you get caught out.

I have been travelling for quite some time now (I started my first travels in around 2002) and so far have been incredibly lucky in terms of crime and pickpocketing. I've avoided taking my attention away from my belongings when people put their hands on my on the metro in Istanbul, ran a mile when women try to sell you flowers in Madrid (my friend didn't and got robbed!).  I have always aired on the side of caution and used my gut instinct to avoid certain situations and places. When drinking of eating alone I pay special attention to my surroundings and always remove vital items from my pockets and wallets. I have even gone so far as to take out the memory cards from my camera in order to keep them safe when walking through places that seem a little dodgy.

So. It was my second trip to Mexico City, we arrived in the morning at around 7-8am and I was so excited to be back. A little tired and worn out as the bus journey went overnight and we left Zapopan bus station at midnight. We arrived in the station and I was just so happy to finally be showing Alex his capital city and as we walked through the station rejecting the offers of taxi drivers we walked towards the metro with my backpack and everything.

Normally I am quite astute to my surroundings and like to move my belongings around my person – add parts of the money in different compartments and also keep my bank cards and ID in different places. But not today! Oh no!

I got carried away and it was only when I was crushed between my backpack the wall of the carriage of the train and around 7 people that I realized that everything was in the same wallet in my front pocket of my jeans. I knew at this point that I was going to be robbed. There were two women in front of me that were very very close to me but that is not that unusual as Mexicans generally don't have the same ideas on personal space and being close to people. But I really had this strong feeling that something really wasn't right. And I was in a situation that I couldn't get out of.  NO!  

As it came to get out of the stop you usually have to push and shove just to get off and this is where it works to the advantage of others. As I was trying to get off the metro car, someone stood in my way, again not particularly that unusual. Temporarily, for a few seconds but long enough. As they eventually moved out the way it was so much easier to move off onto the platform.

After about two seconds I knew something was missing. They had grabbed my wallet. Two seconds later as the train moved off I knew that someone there had my wallet with them. Stupidly it had a decent amount of money in it, my ID, my bank cards.  My jeans were not loose, the wallet was not in my back pocket.  I am very surprised that I didn't feel anything!  They really are professionals.  But an absolute nightmare for me.

The thieves then used my bank card in around 7 convenience stores and stole half of my savings. I managed to get some of the money bank from my bank about 6 months later but it was an uphill struggle for sure and heaps of Mexican bureaucracy (oh the joy!  - You just need this form - brings form - Oh no you need B, C and D! hahahah!  I got there.  Eventually.  

Although you feel that it won't happen to you.  It really could.  But when I think about this event now I feel better.  Has it made me feel more scared to travel?  Not really.  In a way it is a kind of relief.  That sounds a little strange but for so long I have been so afraid to be robbed and be left in a tricky situation but it really wasn't as bad as you think it could be.  You can replace most stuff.  It also is a wake up call to arrange your stuff properly and think of how you can minimize risk when travelling in the future.  

Will I travel on the metro again?  Yes, for sure.  I will be going back to Mexico City next month.  I will avoid travel with my backpack at rush hour - I think that is sensible.  But paranoia to the extreme is a horrible way to live.  We travelled on the metro many times throughout the rest of the weekend in Mexico City and all was good.  

This is definitely not here to attack Mexico City - Travel on its crazy, overcrowded metro is fascinating, frustrating, exciting and incredibly insightful to the very heart and soul of this fantastic country I am lucky to live in.   In fact I still had some of my best moments in Mexico within this place and the weekend when this event happened I saw so many new parts of the city I had never seen (including the incredible Xochimilco which I will add a post on soon for sure!)