Monday, 21 September 2015

Sayula, Jalisco


115 miles south of city of Guadalajara lies the small town of Sayula.  Mostly a sleepy little place with a calm and relaxing main central plaza with attractive yellow covered alcove buildings hiding cafes, bars and wide range of little shops. Sayula isn't going to blow your socks off if I am honest.



But is worth a detour if you are on your way to Ciudad Guzman or further south to Colima if you have the time.

There is a pretty church here located on the corner of the main plaza which houses its own little courtyard which is well worth a look if you are in the city.




The town is additionally famous for a couple of reasons.

A) The ghost of Sayula

A legend involves a merchant man who met a phantom at the gate of the city who offfered him anything he could wish for if he made a pact with him.  From what I have gathered of the story is that the ghost had more in mind and apparently forced himself on the man sexually.  As you do. So, therefore around the town (pretty much everywhere) there are statues and strange mock ups of a ghost with a very large appendage peeking from under the white sheet.  Cue lots of strange photos of people with it on their visit.  We found a replica of the ghost in a small bar on the main plaza.  This really is quite a bizarre thing to find in a little town.

B) Knives

Sayula is home to a world famous Ojeda knife factory and shop where you can see some truly beautiful knives with jaw dropping prices to match.  I can't say that I am a knife enthusiast by any stretch of the imagination but these were indeed very very beautiful and many large and sword-like items of display.  The factory itself is nearby and you can visit and see the knife making process, however it was not open when we visited.


C) Cajeta - The city is famous for its production of cajeta - a thick caramel like syrup which is made from sweetened caramalised milk.  It is available across the country but is particularly famous from this city and can be bought from street sellers pretty much on every street in pretty wooden boxes.

If visiting by bus from Guadalajara I would recommend taking the bus from Primera Plus, this bus is better as they give you allocated seats which is a good thing I promise you.  On our return journey I suddenly got rather ill and the company we used Sur sell as many tickets as they possibly can and it means that you often are all huddled together standing in the aisle and with a dodgy stomach and no toilet this is not a good thing.  TRUST ME!

Al sur de la ciudad de Guadalajara se encuentra el pueblo de Sayula. Para llegar se toma un autobús en la Central de Camiones del Centro de Guadalajara.

El autobús nos dejó justo en el centro del pueblo. Caminamos por los alrededores  en un día demasiado soleado.

No hay mucho por hacer en el pueblo. Fuimos a un café que estaba en el plaza central, después paseamos por la Iglesia y fuimos a visitar la tienda de cuchillos Ojeda, que tiene fama internacional. Es un negocio familiar que se dedica a la creación de objetos punzocortantes como cuchillos, navajas entre otros. Es interesante entrar a la tienda y ver todos los diseños.

El pueblo no tiene muchos lugares para comer así que terminamos comiendo en una pequeña fonda.

Es muy famosa en Sayula, la historia del ánima de Sayula. La historia no la conozco bien, pero parece que era un hombre que se hizo pasar por fantasma y engañó a un despistado que caminaba en la noche. Hicieron un trato a cambio de dinero.
Pero el trato era un favor sexual. Así que esta leyenda se presta a bromas y vaciladas. Es común ver por el pueblo pequeñas figuras de fantasmas sosteniendo una bolsa de dinero y de hecho, fuimos a un bar que tenía un "fantasma" (una sábana blanca con silueta de hombre) de dos metros de altura, que al momento de jalar la bolsa de dinero que sostiene, una figura fálica se levanta. Es algo divertido para ser honestos.
 
La cajeta también es algo muy característica del lugar, y se puede encontrar en todos lados. En la estación de autobuses fue donde compramos la nuestra.

Es altamente recomendable comprar boleto de autobús con asiento numerado, de otra manera el autobús se llena de sobremanera, como si fuera camión urbano.

Nosotros llegamos a tiempo a esperar al autobús, pero en cuanto se estacionó, las personas corren a subirse. No hay fila ni orden. Así que por el mismo precio que los que van sentados, uno puede ir por horas parado en el regreso a Guadalajara. 

Jocotepec, Jalisco

Jocotepec is a small town situated on the shores of Mexico's largest lake, Chapala. Much is said about the neighbouring towns of Ajijic and Chapala with its mix of small town Mexican traditions and retired American and Canadian inhabitants and their cafes, stores, restaurants and bars.

Jocotepec is the most traditional Mexican feeling town out of those I have visited around the lake and feels a world away from the new age styles of Ajijic. The town felt sleepy for some of our visit, the burning afternoon heat had forced many to retire to their houses and the square after the slightly bustlier introduction a few hours previous. The town is famous for its Birria (a dish from Jalisco which is like a stew traditionally made with goat meat - and is delicious) and a local company - apparently so popular they have taken over most of the restaurant spaces in the square supplied it for us.  
Parroquia Señor del Monte

There are two churches in the town. The largest Parroquia Señor del Monte has a pretty construction with many irregular shaped pieces.  Love the little square with the awesome tall palms around it here. There are some striking and beautiful murals outside the church at the back of the square and from here you get some nice views overlooking the other church and the town.

Awesome murals of the lake
There are some striking and beautiful murals outside the church at the back of the square (El señor guaje) and from here you get some nice views overlooking the other church and the town.
View from the doorway of El señor guaje over the main town square


Further out of town (around 20-30mins walk) along the malecon (lakeside walkways) and the lakeside there are some beautiful and tranquil gardens with some bizarre and awesome sculptures around.  The day we went was rather hot so was a good excuse to have a Michelada (sounds rank - beer, tomato juice, Worcesterhsire sauce, chilli and heaps of lime and salt) and little fried fish.  YUMZ!  There is a small line of shops all specializing in this stuff which is great.  
Sweaty Julian by Chapala Lake - the largest in Mexico! 


Along the walk down to the malecon we saw something fall from the sky.  It looked like a turtle and we thought "It really can't be a turtle".  But yes of course it was.  Poor thing had fallen off a balcony and on to the ground where it awoke unpurtrubed and continued walking around....hahaha.  

De la Antigua Central de autobuses de Guadalajara se puede tomar un camión a Jocotepec. El recorrido es de una hora y media y el costo del pasaje es 52 pesos.

Jocotepec es un pueblo pequeño junto a la laguna de Chapala. En lo que se conoce como Riviera de Chapala. El centro del pueblo esta renovado y tiene un kiosko rodeado de árboles y bancas para sentarse a disfrutar algo de comer de los puestos cercanos.
Juego mécanicos en el centro de Jocotepec.

Malecón de Jocotepec
El templo principal es amplio y tiene jardines con macetas en forma extrañas con árboles adentro. Enfrente hay una pequeña capilla con un cristo de 2 metros que se llama El Señor Del Guaje. (Guaje es el nombre del árbol con el que esta hecho el Cristo), justo a fuera se encuentran unos murales con ilustraciones de escenas de la conquista. 

En el Centro se puede pueden encontrar puestos de cacahuates, elotes, nieves de garrada, birria, juguetes, tacos, y más cosas para comer.
El restaurante de El Tartamudo es el más tradicional del lugar. sirviendo birria desde hace más de 50 años, ahí comimos birria muy buena. 

A 20 minutos caminando desde el centro del pueblo por la avenida principal se puede llegar al malecón. Es un buen lugar para caminar, descansar bajo un árbol o ver el lago y las aves que viven en el. A unos pasos hay una zona para sentarse y comer nieve, tomar micheladas o charales (pescaditos fritos)

Es un buen lugar para conocer y ver lo distinto que son los pueblos de la Riviera aún se encuentren a diez minutos de distancia uno de otros.